1/48 F-22 Raptor

This is the start of the Hasegawa 1/48 F-22 Raptor. I will also be using Ares resin cockpit and Eduard photo etch to detail this kit. The F-22 Raptor is fourth generation in stealth aircraft technology by the USAF.  It is the first operational aircraft to combine super cruise, super maneuverability, stealth, and sensor fusion in a single weapons platform.

The Ares resin cockpit required the removal of the dash hood/HUD panel so that it can be replaced by the resin part. The nice thing about resin parts is they have much better detail than the injected plastic kit parts. The cockpit tub just required a couple of photo etch parts like the pedals and levers then was painted. For the resin dash I found a photo of the F-22 dashboard for the F-22 simulator. Using Adobe Photoshop I cut and sized the screens to make decals for the resin dash. Once the decals were applied and coat with clear gloss, the dash buttons and controls were painted.

The ejection seat was painted and detailed with the Eduard photo etch parts. After installing the seat into the cockpit tub the cockpit was weathered with dark gray pastel chalk. The dash was then installed into the fuselage and resin details were added to the fuselage for the canopy mating hooks. Next I will be working on the main bomb bay section.

 

 

Weekly update on the Raptor, I started on the weapons bays. First the main bays. I found a photo on Google that gave me a close look at them. Using 32 awg wire with black sleeving I shaped the harness and used CA glue to join them together.  I was looking thru my scrap photo etch items to find something I can use for the harness ties. I taped the photo to the wall for reference then realized the blue painters tape was an exact match to the color of the harness ties! I then cut small strips and wrapped them along the harness.

Once all the wire harness’ were built and installed I stripped some wire and used the bare wire to simulate the hydraulic lines. I made my own fittings and ran the lines to the individual launchers as well as left some hanging for when I attach the doors. I added some weathering and used a black colored pencil to color in some of the fine wires.

Next I started on the starboard missile bay. Eduard provided some photo etch parts for the avionics and I then drilled and installed the wires for each. Still need to do some fine details on the missile rail then I can repeat the process for the port missile bay.

 

 

Spring snow storm update on the 1/48 Hasegawa F-22 Raptor.

Spring snow storm update! Yes it is spring and the middle of April but I think someone forgot to tell Mother Nature. Snowing like crazy here. So spent the day finishing the weapons bays and starting on the landing gear bays. The front landing gear bay is done.  I added some wiring and hydraulic lines as well. I drew out the shape and laid out the wires then CA glued them together then fit them inside the bay. The photo etch supplied the wall details. I then glued the weapons and nose landing gear bay into the lower half of the fuselage.  Next moving to the main gear then the engines.

Continuing onward this week I am working on the main landing gear bays. After locating reference photos on Google, I started by drilling many, many holes to install the numerous hydraulic lines. Using a .09 drill bit I drilled out the many locations where the lines go to. I then took 32 awg wire and ran the individual lines. I then added the electrical cables and routed them.

Still have a couple of more lines to run then need to do all the yellow and blue connections and holders on the lines. Then I can weather and highlight the bays.

5 thoughts on “1/48 F-22 Raptor

  1. Tidy workplace! I like…

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  2. anthony dagostino April 19, 2019 — 8:37 am

    One question….what is your address? After looking at the “dash” of this bird, realizing the details are on a tiny barely the width of a pencil resin kit, I have decided to give up on modeling altogether and just ship my meager supplies to you, as you undoubtedly could do more with what little I have than I could ever do in ten lifetimes!

    Absolutely stunning detail. I still have a million questions for you, but since my original plan to build duel AH-6J’s hit a roadblock, I am idle yet again. I need to order two new helicopters because I messed up the first batch. Anyway, the F-22 is coming along great. Just wish the US had not cut the fleet by half before these began operationally service. This is a far better fighter than the F-35, which is still good, but way too expensive for something that has no adversaries in the skies right now. It also will not be able to fill the role vacated by the A-10, they just can’t get out of their own way when it comes time to appropriate funds. Even the SPECOPS community is buying prop plans to do true danger close ground support, since they can fly lower,slower and longer than any jet aircraft can. Having jets doing ground support for 15 minutes is not nearly as important as having a prop plane fly for hours over a team on the ground. When will those knuckle heads at the Pentagon ever listen and learn?

    My bet, never.

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  3. anthony dagostino April 19, 2019 — 9:05 am

    One other question for now. When you say 32awg, is that the entire wire with jacket still attached? Or did you strip the jacket and split out the wire from multi strand copper? The reason I ask, I have been planning to use CAT5E patch cables to do my wiring on my kits. The patch cords are stranded cables, so each color wire (8) have their own jacket, once strippers you get a bundle of very tiny copper conductors in a tight bundle. If done right, they should make great wiring bundles. What I can’t figure out is how to color them. Do you just paint the bare metal wire?

    Thanks,
    Anthony

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    1. I bought 32 awg wire with the jacket. It came with 6 spools of various colors. I strip the jacket off and use the bare wire for the hydraulic lines and leave jacket on for cables. For bare wires you can paint then or color them with permanent markers. Just a quick note, do not spray clear coat over wires colored with permanent markers. The ink will run and any paint you put over the runs, the permanent ink will bleed thru.

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      1. anthony dagostino April 19, 2019 — 10:32 am

        Definitely good to know, thanks for the tip! While I wait for new kits to come, I am going to play with the wires I already have, see what kind of shapes and what thickness looks good. I hope my stranded cable works as I think it will. I just remembered that ordinary phone wire has four conductors usually in solid colors, red, green, yellow and black. That is much easier than trying to paint/color via magic marker.

        Cheers,

        Anthony

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